I’ve loved every single trip we’ve ever taken, regardless if a passport was required, or it was just a road-trip one town over. Seeing new places, experiencing different cultures and foods, meeting the people…I love it all. And even though I’ve loved every city, town and village we’ve visited, I don’t have a desire to go back to most of them. Seen it, loved it, ready to move on to the next.
However, some places take root in your heart, and you just can’t let them go. I’ve got a handful of those places…Paris, Santorini, Galveston, Cinque Terre (I promise I’ll write that post someday!)…and now, Vieques, Puerto Rico.
The Caribbean island of Vieques is part of the United States, but might as well be on another planet. Wild horses trot through town, a
bioluminescent bay glows with every paddle stroke, and pristine beaches are prime for discovering.
The whole island feels like an undiscovered gem, even though it’s just 7
miles off the east coast of the bustling Puerto Rican mainland. But places don’t remain rustic and undiscovered if they are convenient, which means it’s not as accessible as our Western mentality is accustomed. Nor does it have all the luxuries of home like a fully-stocked grocery store, multiple gas stations, and traffic lights.
But it does have tranquility unlike any you’ll find on a mainland, the most glorious clear, blue water, secluded beaches, and the friendliest people we’ve ever encountered while traveling. I’d imagine Vieques is what the Virgin Islands were 30 years ago…before tourism set in.
You can take a 90-minute ferry ride from Fajardo, but we heard it could be choppy and unpredictable…so we opted for the 10-minute flight from Ceiba. On a teeny, tiny, itty, bitty, 6-seater prop plane.
Some right off the main road, and other beaches hidden and unmarked. Some beaches would have 20 people, others wouldn’t have a soul all day. Then every night, we’d fall asleep to the sounds of the Coqui frogs and horses clopping by.
Most of the beaches are little coves, so the water is as calm as a lake…perfect for little sea monsters.
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| bathing suit | hat | shirt |
The two towns on the island, Isabel Segunda
and Esperanza, aren’t much more than a few streets and shops clustered
together in rustic charm. Most of the restaurants we visited are owned and operated by ex-pats who traded their busy lives for the slow island pace.
{Where We Stayed}
Casa el Dormilon
This home is at the top of a hill, nestled in a quiet neighborhood…and a huge part of what made our time in Vieques so magical. It’s more than enough room, and had everything we needed. We literally brought nothing but shorts, flip-flops and swim suits. More pictures and info on the house in a future post.
The kids spent lots of time exploring the property, and never once complained about the lack of TVs. The lack of distractions gave us so much quality family time…and it was a treat to actually enjoy each other.
{Where We Ate}
There’s a farmer’s market twice a week, with lots of fresh produce, and baked goods.
This is where we stocked up for breakfasts and snacks.
Mambo
A tiny store that carries basic groceries, like milk, coffee, chips, etc.
Again, it’s not the conveniences of home, but that’s what makes it unique.
Buen Provecho
Great breakfasts & our go-to spot for picnic sandwiches
Restaurante Bili
Authentic Puerto-Rican food, served casually across the street from the beach
Coqui Fire Cafe
Casual, inexpensive Mexican food, always busy
Conuco
Superb Puerto-Rican cuisine, a tad overpriced, but one of the nicest places on the island
There were several other places we wanted to try, but most aren’t open 7-days a week.
Everywhere on the island is the definition of beach casual.
{Other Details of Note}
Flights
We flew Air Flamenco from Ceiba Airport on east coast of the mainland, to Vieques (we drove from San Juan to Ceiba when visiting El Yunque…see that post here).
Our return flight was on Vieques Air Link, from Vieques to San Juan.
Note: it’s significantly cheaper to fly into Isla Grande, and take a $20 cab to San Juan International.
And remember, Puerto Rico is an American territory, so no passports are required!
Car Rental
We rented our Jeep from Juergen at Abreeze Rentals.
He picked us up at the airport, and dropped us back off at the end of our trip.
His cars are very well maintained, guaranteed, and fairly priced.
Given that there are only two gas stations on the island, and they frequently run out of gas, renting from reliable people is key!
Jeeps are a necessity if you plan to explore beaches beyond the main ones.
The Bioluminescent Bay Tour
The vibrancy of bay was in decline while we were there due to tides, but it was still so mystical.
We were guided on kayaks through the darkness, and anything that touched the water glowed.
I’d highly recommend it, and we had a great experience with Abe’s Tours.
It was a trip none of us will ever forget, and a place we all hope to get back to soon. I love spending time with these three people anywhere, but on a Puerto Rican adventure is pretty sweet! Have you been to Puerto Rico? Think you might now?! I try to make these posts equal parts personal scrapbook and useful travel information. If you have questions, feel free to leave them in the comments or email me!